Polished Diamonds

Solomon Katzman

Solomon katzman

Polished Diamonds

We are at your disposal to organize a presentation of diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds in our offices. We will receive you in a secure and confidential environment.

A first contact will be necessary to better identify and discuss your requirements. Our team of gemologists are available to advise and accompany you, and show you a selection of certified stones that best reflects your needs.

You also have the opportunity to examine the stones in the best conditions (best lighting, magnifying glasses, colour comparisons).

All of our diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds are certified by leading laboratories (GIA, IGI). Moreover, in the case of diamonds, the numbers of those certificates are laser-engraved on their girdle (the edge of the stone).

Our jewelry department is also at your disposal to create your custom-made jewelry. After defining your project, models will be offered so that you can participate in the creation of your jewelry.

Grading

Shapes

Carat

A carat is a unit of measurement used to weigh a diamond. One carat is equal to one fifth of a gram (0.2 gram) or 200 mg. One carat is equal to 100 points or 100 cents.

Carat weight is the most objective of the 4 C’s of diamonds as it involves no estimates, comparisons or judgements.

Visual effect of carat weight on a diamond’s appearance seems fairly obvious: the more a diamond weighs, the larger it will look. However, this is not always the case. As most people in the trade already know, cut proportions can also affect the perceived size of a diamond.

Carat weight is directly related to a diamond’s value because (all else being equal) larger diamonds are rarer than smaller ones. As a result, larger diamonds cost more per carat than smaller diamonds (e.g., a 2.00 ct diamond of the same quality can cost more than twice the amount of a 1.00 ct diamond).

Colour

The color of a diamond is one of the vital factors influencing the price of diamond

In diamonds, the best color is no color at all. Colorless diamonds are extremely rare, hence making them the most sought after. Contrary to common belief, all diamonds are not truly colorless. They actually come in many different colors – commonly faint yellow or brown. But its colorless diamonds, sometimes called white diamonds, which all other shades are judged against. Colorless grade diamonds are the most valuable with exception to some fancy colors which are again very rare and expensive if their color is natural.

Colorless diamonds allow the maximum refraction of light thus maximized brilliance. In comparison Off White diamonds absorb light hence inhibiting brilliance.

There is now an internationally recognized color grading scale which starts at D (colorless), and goes down to Z (light yellow). Each letter grade represents a range of color and is a measure of how noticeable the color is. Colorless diamonds and diamonds that are yellow or yellowish brown are grouped into the categories shown below

E

D

F

G-H

I-J

K-M

N-Z

Colour

These grades do not apply to fancy coloured diamonds-they have their own colour grading standards

D, E or F commands the highest prices because of their rarity. Less than 1% of all diamonds are colorless hence they command a premium . For the untrained and unaided eye, it is very difficult to distinguish between D, E or F colors as they are all colorless with miniscule difference in colour.

They are then followed by the near-colorless (G- H),followed by ( I- J) with G and H being universally most popular. The spectrum then gets a visible yellow hue from (K-R). Color more intense than (R) is considered fancy

Fancy Colour

Intensely colored diamonds are known as “fancies” or fancy colored diamond. Natural Fancy Color Diamonds are rare and can be very expensive. It’s said that out of 10,000 normal diamonds one of them would be a fancy color diamond. The most popular fancy color diamond is Yellow. Other colors such as Pink, Blue, purple and Red and can be extremely expensive.

Fancy Colored Diamond Grading

The color of a fancy colored diamond is measured differently to a normal diamonds. The grading scale is based on the intensity of the color. The GIA fancy color grading scale is: Faint, Very Light, Light, Fancy Light, Fancy, Fancy Intense, Fancy Vivid, Fancy Deep and Fancy Dark

Is our reference to the feather in a diamond. They can vary in sizes The following table guides u on the size and location of the White Inclusion in our diamonds.

Clarity

Diamonds contain naturally occurring impurities known as inclusions. They may occur internally in the form of tiny fractures, feathers, clouds or crystals and externally as scratches and fissures. They are caused by trace minerals and other impurities that may be present or by irregularities in the natural process of diamond formation. Factors determining the clarity of diamonds are – number of inclusions, nature of inclusions (e.g., feathers, clouds, knots, color), location and size of the inclusions

In addition to internal inclusions, surface irregularities are referred to as blemishes. These two categories of imperfections-inclusions (internal) and blemishes (external)-make up clarity.

Inclusions greatly affect the beauty and value of a diamond because they absorb the light rather than allowing it to be reflected back through the front side of the stone. Consequently fewer the imperfections, the rarer and more valuable the diamond.

Diamonds are graded for clarity on the basis of internal and external imperfections present.

Clarity Facts

As the grading decreases the price decreases exponentially. This is because diamonds with greater quality (correspondingly with lesser inclusions) are that much rarer.

Along with the type and number of inclusions, their position also makes an impact on the value and brilliance of a diamond.

Fortunately diamonds of all clarity grades and prices, including those with eye visible inclusions can look beautiful. It primarily depends on how well they are cut and other factors.

Contrary to popular belief, higher clarity does not always mean more beautiful. If the inclusions are not visible to the naked eye, a higher clarity does not really improve the appearance of a diamond but rather the rarity and price.

Cut

Cut refers to the quality of the proportions, polish and symmetry of a diamond. Of the 4C’s, the cut is the aspect most directly influenced by man, whereas the other three C’s are influenced by nature.

Quite often the cut of a diamond is confused with its shape, but it actually is about a diamond’s proportions, such as its depth and width and the uniformity of its facets–all characteristics that control brilliance, durability and other features we look for in a diamond.

The brilliance of a diamond depends a lot on its cut. Whatever the shape, a well-cut diamond always reflects better light. Diamonds with perfect colour or clarity also display reduced brilliance if it’s cut poorly.

Proportions

(Importance of Cut)

Diamonds are cut in many shapes but, it is the precision with which facets are polished on to a diamond, which allows it to capture light and release its brilliance and fire.

Proportions

When a diamond is cut to ideal or proper proportions, light is reflected from one facet to another and then dispersed through the top of the stone. This results in a display of brilliance and fire.
When the cut of a diamond is too shallow, light escapes through the pavilion before it can be reflected.
When the cut of a diamond is too deep, some light escapes through the opposite side of the pavilion.
A polished diamond’s beauty lies in its complex relationship with light: how light strikes the surface, how much enters the diamond, and how, and in what form light returns to your eye.
The result is a display of three attributes. Brightness is the combination of all white light reflecting from the surface and interior of a diamond. Fire is the coloured flashes that can be seen in a diamond. Scintillation describes the sparkle of light you see in a diamond, and the overall pattern of bright and dark areas when you look at a diamond face-up. A polished diamond’s proportions affect its light performance, which in turn affects its beauty and overall appeal. Diamonds with good proportions optimize the interaction with light, and have good brilliance, fire, and scintillation.

Polish and Symmetry

Polish and symmetry are two other important aspects of the cut. Polish describes the smoothness of the diamond’s facets (surface conditions), and symmetry refers to alignment of the facets (the exactness of shape and placement of the facets).

To ensure a diamond has good symmetry, each facet must be consistently sized and positioned opposite its corresponding facet. Symmetry refers to the alignment of one part of the diamond to another. The exactness of a finished diamond shape and the placement of its facet constitute symmetry. .. With poor symmetry, light can be misdirected as it enters and exits the diamond.

Polishing is the final step in diamond cutting. Ideally a diamond should be free of any visible polish lines, burn marks, scratches or abrasions under 10 x magnifications. The smoother the polish, the more beautiful and brilliant the diamond will appear. Surface facets of a poorly polished diamond appear blurred or are dull in their sparkle.

Diameter: The width of the diamond as measured through the girdle.
Table: This is the large, flat top facet of a diamond.
Crown: The upper portion of a cut gemstone, above the girdle.
Girdle: The narrow rim of a diamond that separates the crown from the pavilion. It is the largest diameter to any part of the stone.
Pavilion: The lower portion of the diamond, below the girdle. It is sometimes referred to as the base.
Culet: The tiny facet on the pointed bottom of the pavilion.
Depth: The height of a diamond, from the culet to the table.

Fluorescence

Another characteristic that does not affect the color grade of a diamond but is worth keeping in mind is fluorescence This characteristic refers to the diamond’s ability to fluoresce under ultraviolet (UV) light. The most common source of UV is a black light. When exposed to UV light, many diamonds will give off a distinctive glowing blue coloration. Although fluorescence may be displayed in various colors, blue is the most common in diamonds. The fluorescence of a diamond is defined by its intensity as either None, Faint, Medium, Strong, or Very Strong.

Inclusions

It is a clarity characteristic found within a diamond. All kinds of internal imperfections formed before or after crystallization of a diamond and all imperfections rising from the surface and developing into the interior of the stone are included under inclusions. They could be pin-points, crystalline objects, feathers, clouds, needle, twinning wisps, internal graining or even air bubbles trapped inside the diamond. Inclusions can vary in size, colour and relief. Location of the inclusion also has a significant impact on the value and look of a diamond.

Black Inclusion

Presence of a black impurity in a diamond. The following table guides u on the size and location of the Black Inclusion in our diamonds.

White Inclusion

Is our reference to the feather in a diamond. They can vary in sizes.
The following table guides u on the size and location of the White Inclusion in our diamonds.

None – No black inclusion
VLBC – Very light black in center
LBC – Light black in center
BIC – Black inclusion center
MBC – Major black in center
VLBCS – Very light black center & side
LBCS – Light black in center & side

None – No feather inclusion
VLFC – Very light feather in center
LFC – Light feather in center
FIC – Feather inclusion center
MFC – Major feather in center
VLBCS – Very light ftr center & side
LFCS – Light feather in center & side

None – No black inclusion
VLBS – Very light black on side
LBS – Light black on side
BIS – Black inclusion on side
MBS – Major black on side
BCS – Black in center & side
MBCS – Major black in center & side

None – No feather inclusion
VLFS – Very light feather on side
LFS – Light feather on side
FIS – Feather on side
MFS – Major feather on side
FCS – Feather in center & center
MFCS – Major feather center & side

Shade

Color (shade) of a diamond refers to the amount of yellow or brown tints in a white diamond. Diamonds are given a color grading based on the intensity and prominence of the color seen. Brown diamonds are usually referred as an equivalent color grade.

Diamonds are generally white or they progressively move down in color, in shades of yellow. Occasionally the colors of diamonds are in shades of brown. Diamonds are given a color grading based on the intensity and prominence of the color seen.

The following table guides u on the intensity of brown shades in our diamonds.

Milky

It is any hazy or cloudy inclusion in a diamond. These inclusions appear misty white or grey Clouds may be either confined to a small area or may be spread throughout the stone. They usually affect the lustre and brilliance in a diamond.

Eye Clean

Is a term we use for clarity in diamonds, where the piece when viewed FACE UP looks
clean to the un-aided/naked/open eye.

Solomon Katzman